There are nights when London simply sparkles, and then there are nights when you find yourself sipping rare wines with a world-class wine director in one of the city’s most glamorous bars. Last night was the latter.

My wife Alison and I were warmly welcomed to the iconic Donovan Bar by the charming Federico Pavan, Director of Mixology, and we settled in for an unforgettable evening with Wieteke Teppema (pronounced VEE-tuh-kuh), the Commercial Director & Wine Buyer for Drop Wine. If you don’t know her yet, she’s one of the best palates in the business. A Decanter and IWSC judge, ex-sommelier at The Square and The Ledbury, and co-founder of Gezellig, she brings deep industry credentials with a contagious enthusiasm for storytelling through wine.

Set in Brown’s Hotel (London’s oldest, no less), Donovan Bar is a seductive blend of old-world elegance and contemporary swagger. Think black-and-white prints from Terence Donovan, British racing green, shimmering bronze, and a 19th-century stained glass window glinting over a leather-fronted bar. It oozes history and style, a perfect match for the heritage-meets-modernity wine experience Wieteke is shaping at Browns.

Here’s a twist: the house pour is the 2015 Laurent-Perrier Millésimé Brut. Yes, a vintage Champagne as the house sparkler. When that’s your starting point, you know the wine list means business.

Wieteke’s list leans Italian but with a clever international accent, clearly tailored for a discerning, global clientele, and no doubt a welcome embrace for the hotel’s American guests. As we talked, tasted, and occasionally veered into cheeky wine gossip, it became clear that Wieteke’s list is less “greatest hits” and more “carefully curated mixtape.” Sure, you’ll find a solid Chablis and Sancerre, but you’ll also uncover treasures like a Vermentino from Cinque Terre, an earthy Pinot Nero from Alto Adige, and a striking Chardonnay from Patagonia, born of a collaboration between Marchese della Rochetta (yes, the Sassicaia family) and Jean-Marc Roulot. Now that is what I call an international duet.

There were many standouts among the wines poured, but special mention must go to the 2019 Alion from Vega Sicilia, a second wine that shows no signs of playing second fiddle. It’s a bold move, and a smart one.

Wieteke is passionate about wines with a backstory, favouring smaller growers, sustainable practices, and expressive profiles. No bland ‘natural wine because it’s trendy’ here. Wieteke is all about purity, balance, and a splash of curiosity.

In between sips and snacks (the smoked brioche with Cantabrian anchovy is divine), we geeked out over AI in wine marketing, the resurgence of fuller-bodied Chardonnay, and the curious decline of lunchtime Burgundy consumption (RIP, the three-glass business lunch).

The cocktail programme might be the star of the show at Donovan Bar—it’s certainly an impressive menu after all, but make no mistake, Wieteke has built a wine list that deserves just as much applause. It’s elegant, adventurous, and layered with personal touches.

And let’s not forget the story she shared about the 2006 Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill: apparently, Churchill’s favourite London watering hole was none other than Donovan’s. I’ll raise a glass to that kind of poetic pairing.

As for the setting? The bar’s “liquid history” concept is no gimmick. It’s a stage where rare vintages, impeccable service, and unexpected moments (like AI-fuelled wine chats) come together to create something quite special.

We left, glowing from great wine, better company, and the firm sense that Browns isn’t just serving drinks, it’s bottling memories.

Thank you, Wieteke, for your generous time and passion. Here’s to more stories in a glass.